from THE SKIPPERS DESK 1st July 2012:
And ther’re off! as they say in the classics. Yes, we dropped the ropes today and headed north, if only to Redcliffe for a couple of days to say goodbye to our
friends and family. On Thursday we will head up past Fraser Island avoiding
the Wide Bay Bar and going around Fraser past Lady Elliot to Pancake Creek
for a couple of weeks crabbing, fishing and getting our sea legs back. Once
we reckon we are back in proper holiday mode and have shaken off the ‘marina
blues’ we will head further up to the ‘Kepples’ for
a week or two. Watch this space for the reports and first photos of the crabs
and fish. 4th July 2012: Well we
changed our plans due to the weather predictions. We decided to run over Wide
Bay Bar and run up the inside. They are calling a strong wind warning for
tonight so at least this way we will avoid the discomfort. Currently anchored
up at Inskip point relaxing. Will watch the final
State of Origin tonight and tomorrow we will head up to Hervey Bay for a few
days befor continuing on to Pancake creek. 10th July 2012: We camped
along the shoreline inside Fraser for a day or two and decided to head over
to the Burnett (Bundaberg) to spend a day or so at the river entrance before
continuing up to Pancake Creek. Once a few miles from shore we encountered 3
to 4 metre seas all the way. Not a pleasant trip
but the ‘Gyro’ stabilisers help a bit by pulling
the roll back about 50%. We were glad to reach the Burnett river. Stuck our necks outside the river this morning with a plan to
head north but turned back when confronted by 3 meter waves breaking across
the entrance. We don’t need the rough seas, nothing to prove so we will stay
another day inside. 15 to 20 knots predicted tomorrow with some N.E. so it
may be a little better. No fish yet but haven’t really got fair dinkum with the efforts. Better prospects as we head
further north. 12th July 2012: Was glad to
leave the Burnett, what a hole, got nothing going for it in my opinion. We
had a bad trip up to Pancake with 25 knots mostly on the beam with large
swells from the North east. 14th July 2012: Well Pancake
never disappoints. I caught a 10kg Golden Trevally today and a nice 3 kg
Spangled Emperor. Will run the pots out tomorrow using the fish frames. 6 big
muddies next day (3 Jennies unfortunately) but a great feed. 15th July 2012:Left Pancake for
the Kepples group and having a predicted strong
wind change for the next day we anchored up in a protected bay for the night.
The weather man was so wrong..the
wind hit us at 2.00 am and blew upwards to 30 knots for the rest of the
night. I was on anchor watch all night as we were anchored near a reef. 16th July 2012: Tied up in Kepple Sands Marina (Yepoon)
waiting out a strong wind. We will venture out to Great Kepple
Island in a day of two for a few days R and R and some more fishing. 22nd July 2012: The wind
never ceased all week so we spent the week in comfort inside Kepple Sands (Rosslyn Bay) Marina. Time to catch up with
friends Peter and Yvonne who cruised with us in 2010. Had a very enjoyable
game of golf at the Jap resort in Yepoon with
Peter. 23rd July 2012: Finally left
Rosslyn and headed out to Great Kepple Island for a
day or two. We met another cruising couple, Alan and Veronica, their vessel “Storm”is an incredibley
restored timber trawler which Alan must have spent a million hours of TLC
bringing her up to her current state. The wind eased a couple of days later
so we decided to head north again. 26th July 2012: Arrived at
Island Head Creek yesterday afternoon and anchored a fair way up the creek to
avoid the wind. no fish, no crabs and no bait so we cruised off to the Percy Group of Isls. Stopped for a break at Middle Percy then early next morning the weather man was calling strong winds for the following day so we decided to get further down range towards the Whitsundays. WE headed into Scawfell Isl. for the night. Caught two beaut spotty mackeral after dinner off the swim platform using live bait caught with the throw net. These bait fish are attracted to the boat with our underwater “Aqualuma” lights and I simply throw the net over a school and bingo…live bait. We get most of our bait that way. 28th July 2012: Awoke at 1.00
am to find the boat pitching and rolling, the wind had hit us suddenly and it
was gusting over 40 knots. I had to let out another 30 feet of chain and
extend the flexible snub on the anchor by about 10 feet to iron out the
shocks as the boat pulled and bucked with the 2 meter chop.That
was the end of any sleep for the night again. The noise of the snub
stretching and the wind whistleing thru the deck
fittings made an eirie and frightening combination. This supposed to be a safe anchorage but obviously not with 40
knots plus. We will take off first light tomorrow and get the hell out. I
would rather run with strong winds than anchor up in them..it,s too hard on the
boat and tackle. 30th July 2012: Cruised
straight thru the Whitsundays, they have little appeal to us these days as it
is full of tourists and charter boats. Anchored up in Woodwark
bay 6 miles north of Airlie for the night. Today we headed around to
Gloucester Straights to have a nice meal at the ‘Eco’ Resort restaurant on the
beach. Took a shot of Liberty showing our ‘bike’ on the boat deck. This will
provide us with transport when we are in Port.I
don’t think I will get any trouble from the Bandidoes. 1st August 2012: Had a great meal
at the Eco restaurant, Annie went oystering in the
afternoon and I fished. Just as well she got oysters as I caught zilch. 7th August 2012: We are at
one of our favourite places..Magnetic Isl. off Townsville. I offloaded the
bike and we have been zipping all round
the island until the bloody thing died on the biggest hill yesterday. If it
wasn’t for Karen and Darren from their scooter hire company called “Road
Runner Scooter Hire” who I rang, we would still be on the side of the road.
They craned the bike onto their truck, took it back to their workshop and
worked on it for two hours. The next day I discovered a
broken oil feed pipe which was causing the carby
to suck air, fixed it up and away she went again. We have decided to store
the bike on the Island until we come back in December to spend the cyclone
season at Magnetic Isl. 13th August 2012: From
Horseshoe Bay to the Palm Islands in the last 3 days after catching up
with Kerry and Eileen for a day on
“Olympus” and now across to the Hinchinbrook Channel for a few days hopefully
to catch a few Barramundies. 14th August 2012: The first
thing we did once we arrived in Hinchinbrook was to set a couple of crab
pots. The next morning we found a 2 metre bronze
whaler shark had jammed himself in one of the pots and drowned himself
overnight. No crabs, so we took a couple of slabs off the shark for bait and
headed up Gayunda Creek (off the channel) to try
our luck up there. It paid off spectacularly, we had 12 muddies by the next
afternoon. They must love shark meat!! This time we had no luck with the fishing. No Barra and no
silver Grunter this trip, must have been the diurnal
tides. 16th August 2012: Reluctantly
we pull the anchor on Hinchinbrook and head up to Dunk Island. Now Dunk as we
all no was devastated last year by cyclone Yasi. It ripped thru the resort tearing up every thing in it’s
path. We were shocked at the damage on shore. (see
photo log). We collected a bag of coconuts on the beach and picked some wild
bananas that had been missed by previous visitors. The nuts yielded about one
and a half litres of juice which we chilled and
mixed with vodka and ice. Makes a really nice martini, shaken of course and
not stirred. I can’t remember much about that day after that. 17th August 2012: We decided we
needed to get some fresh fish for the freezer so we headed out to ‘Farquarson’ Reef which is about 20 miles off shore from
Dunk. Found a good looking ‘Bommie’ and dropped the
lines. Within an hour Annie had caught 3 nice Coral Trout and I had a couple
of nice Cod. She outfished me this time. (see photo
log) The wind started to come up so we headed in to Mourilian Harbour for the
night. The next morning we steamed the last 70 miles up to Cairns and booked
into the marina for a couple of weeks to re stock, service the engines and
generator. We will wait here for Mark and Jennifer to arrive from America, they will travel up to Lizard Island with us for
10 days. 2nd September 2012: Yesterday we
had Allan and Julie Anderson from Hope Island visit
us so we took them out to Arlington Reef and Green Isl. for the day. It was a
bit windy going over and back but at Green Isl. it was delightful. We had a
great day out. 9th September 2012: Our Yanky guests, Mark and Jennifer arrived yesterday so we
slipped out of Cairns harbour at first light and
steamed for Lizard Island via Cape Bedford overnight. As our guests only had
a limited time to stay with us I had decided to leave in 25 knots of S.E
winds to make up time and as a result we had a a
bit of roll. I put the stabilizers on for the whole trip and we did the first
120 miles in reasonable comfort. The next morning however the wind shifted to
the east and for the last 20 miles to Lizard we had 30 knots plus on the
beam. Even the stabilizers couldn’t take out all the
roll so it was a fun trip with some waves pushing us over to 30 degrees plus.
I think our passengers had an adventure they could have done without. 11th September 2012: Here we are
at the lovely Lizard Island once again. The guests at the resort pay around
$2000 a night to enjoy the same sights as we get for nothing, makes us feel kinda special. The snorkelling
here is world class with some of the prettiest coral and fish species in the
world. Mark and Jennifer did all the walks and some snorkelling
whilst Annie and I just vegged out and enjoyed the
scenery for a few days. The fish around the boat at night with the underwater
lights on is nothing short of spectactular. They
are so thick you could almost walk on them. It is like having your very own
aquarium at the back of the boat. Some big trevally up to 50 kg as well as
sharks, bat fish, and queen fish in their hundreads.
Unfortunately the whole area is a green zone so we weren’t able to catch any
of them. 16th September 2012: Houston we
have a problem….We woke up this morning to an electrical problem that
initially looked like we had blown up our inverter. After investigation we
discovered that the inverter had kicked out the reset button because the main
fridge had blown a mother board. No main fridge meant that Annie went into
total panic mode. The fridge was full of food and …hang
on a minute! my beer will get hot too, I stated to
panic now. I decided to put out a call on channel 16 for any electricians
moored in Watsons Bay. (there were 15 boats anchored
up at the time). Like a miracle this guy called Jerry from a yacht called “Thylacines” calls back and says “I’m an electrical
engineer how can I help”. Well help he did. Jerry pulled the fridge apart and rewired the
circuit to run direct without the mother board. This meant we could still
keep it running, except we now had to cycle it on and off manually at the
switch ourselves. The guy is a genius. We ordered a new circuit board from
Cairns and Jerry picked it up from Cooktown when he
sailed back to restock his larder. We also have caught up with Jeff and Judy
on “Andalea” who sailed a week befor
us from Cairns. We hope to cruise a bit with these guys befor
they turn and run back to Hervey Bay for Xmas. We will be heading off to Flinders Island at Cape Melville next
week for a couple of weeks fishing and crabbing. We will have a total
communications blackout there except for our satellite phone. 23rd September 2012: We cruised
to the ‘Flinders Group today (84 miles north of Lizard) to do some fishing.
Well fish we did. Within an hour of anchoring behind Stanley Isl. I was into
a 10 kg mackeral, followed by a 20 kg GT trevally
then a 15 kg Queenfish (which I threw back). The
monster fish kept coming on and off for the next two days including a wopping big ‘Morgan; Cod around 20 kilo. (see photo log
for evidence of catch…warning!! if you get jealous easily, don’t look)We
caught a few big Mac Tunas too but after trying one in a curry we decided to
release all the other we caught. After a week “S.V.Thylacine”
with Jerry and Susanne joined us at Flinders Isl. and they started to fish.
As luck would have it the tides went ‘Diurnal’ (look up diurnal on Google for
explaination) in other words the tides caused the
fish to stop biting and we caught nothing much after that for the next week.
The Flinders Isl. are a rugged group but have a certain charm about them.
Because of the constant wind we could not explore all the areas we wanted and
the fringing reef around every island makes it hard to go ashore in the
dinghy. 7th October 2012: It looked like we had finally worn out our
welcome and had better leave so we waited for a break in the wind to sail
back to Lizard.For the first 2 days we endured 40
knots hiding behind Cape Melville befor making a
run to Lizard on the 9th of October in about 10 knots and half a
meter of sea…,a good run. Finally we have
established communications again. All those people who I asked to hold my
emails while away in Flinders Isl, thankyou for the 357 emails I downloaded today. I shall
attempt to answere them sometime this year. 27th October 2012: All good
things eventually have to end so it came to pass that we should leave Lizard
Island and head south again. The weather bureau predicted light winds for the next two days so we headed off to stop at Cape Bedford over night and continue to Cairns the next day, well the first part was ok. We woke at 2.00am to make passage to Cairns and had 15 knots of S.E. but decided to continue. By 8.00 am we had 30 knots on the nose with waves around 3 meters coming over the bow on occasions but we soldiered on hoping it wouldn’t get any worse. Unfortunately by lunch time with 40 miles to go we starting getting rain squalls that bought 40 knots plus with them and waves around 4 to 5 meters, we had enough. After taking solid green water over the decks for 30 minutes I turned for Port Douglas which was abeam of us about 15 mile in. We limped into there for the night. 29th October 2012: The wind had
dropped to 15knots by morning so we slipped the ropes and headed down to
Cairns. After a couple of days in Cairns restocking we decided to head south
for the duration of the cyclone season so we set a course for Townsville via
Dunk Isl, Hinchinbrook channel and the Palm Isl.
Group . Not long after leaving Dunk we heard a grinding noise coming from the
port gearbox. I shut it down and upon inspection found it to have no oil. I
refilled it and did about 5 mile and noticed an oil slick coming from the
exhaust so I shut the port side down completely and jammed the prop shaft so it couldn,t
rotate the gear box in neutral. I figured theoul
cooler had shit itself and allowed all the oil to leak out. We continued the
rest of the cruise on one engine. With a couple of days stopover at
Hinchinbrook we finally made
Townsville Harbour around the 6th
November and booked in for a month so we could do some maintenance and
repairs including installing some new electronics, satellite TV, new
inverters and some long range aerials for internet and AIS. The gear box
ultimately had to come out and get stripped down. We were lucky as it was not
damaged and the fact that I had locked the shaft up saved the box from any
damage. We had to buy two new oil coolers for the transmissions as well.
Whilst we were there I sold the scooter and bought a new slightly more
powerful model to get around on. 7th December 2012: We exited Townsville and headed
over to Rattle snake Island for a day or so to test everything on board then
headed into Nelly Bay Marina on Magnetic Isl. to stay here over the Xmas and
New Year. We won’t be going anywhere until February so I don’t think anything
exciting will be happening until then. See you all in February. 26th December 2012: We had Susan
and the grand kids up for a week before Xmas. They
had a ball running around the Island and taking in all the sites. It sure is
quiet now there’re gone. We had a quiet Xmas, just the two of us. Annie did a pork roast
for Dinner which was delicious, especially the crackle. I have become a temporary member of the Country Golf Club and
play each Wed and Friday now to keep my game up. 10th January 2013:Our friends Gail
and Neil have gone home after spending 10 days with us on the island. They
had a great time and left us with some memorable occasions. We have a break
now from southern visitors until the long weekend when my kids come rumbling up for 3 days. 25th January 2103: Ex Tropical
cyclone Oswald hit us yesterday but we were very lucky being situated in the
marina here on the island as we only got winds to around 60 knots and 210 mm
of rain. We suffered no damage at all and as far as I know no one else did
here either, although the north side of the island had some devastation on it’s beach. 29th January 2013: Well the kids
came and went after exploring every nook and cranny on the Island. That
includes every pub and bar in those establishments as well. We had a great
time riding scooters all over doing a pub crawl and swimming in each area we
visited. It has been extremely hot up here this week, around the 37deg and 75
– 80 % humidity. I am sure they enjoyed their stay. 2nd February 2013: The long range
forecasters up here say the BIG one is coming in about a month so we have
decided to stay here at Magnetic until the 2nd week in March befor venturing further north again. When we do leave we
plan on following the ribbon reefs up to Cairns and fishing all the holes on
the way. We will take about a week to complete that trip. The Barramundi
season opened here on the 1st so we can now try and catch the two
big buggers that swim around the marina of a night. When I put my underwater
lights on at night the small bait fish come in followed by these huge Barra
so it’s game on now. Our neighbour caught a nice
big Mangrove Jack here last month on a piece of fat he cut off his steak. 4th February 2013: Annie hooked
the Barra, fought it hard but as it came to the boat
it slipped the hook. We are still trying. 5th February 2013: We have been
working hard for the last 3 days putting up the solar panels. We have
installed 4 x 130 watt German “SolarWorld” panels
which when on anchor will cut our generator times back by a third. This will
save around $2000 P.A. 10th February 2013: I Joined the
Magnetic Island Country Club as a temp. member last
month and now enjoy two games of golf a week. I am not playing any better for
it but the exercise sure is welcome. I made some great friends while I was
there and hope to play a few more games on my return. 25th February 2013: The solar
panels are working great. I am getting an extra 30 amp per hour between
9.00am and 3.00pm. This will cut our genny time
down by 2 hours a day saving us about $2000 p.a. Same old same old here every day at the
moment. I am starting to get ‘Marina fever’ and need to feel the salt air in
my face and the gentle roll of the sea as we cruise along. We are just
waiting for a weather window and will head off. March 7th 2103: Well, another
bloody cyclone has appeared on the screen. This one is called Tim and looks a
bit scary as it heads south west from the Coral Sea. They say it may miss us
so we are cautiously watching it every day. It looks like it is getting stronger and is heading in to the
coast so we could be in for a beating. March 17th 2013: We are making
an executive decision today to pack up the bike, tie down the deck gear and
head north to avoid ‘Tim”. The weather gurus say is heading back onto the
coast somewhere near Townsville. I have learned over the years to only
believe about half what the Australian Weather bureau predicts as a lot of
what they come up with is just that….a prediction based on computer models etc,
however there is nothing like looking out the bloody window every now and
again and having a guess at what is going on. I did just that and we decided
to make a run for it. We will steam
all day and get as far up the coast as we can on our way to Cairns. I was
right, as the trip up was in glass conditions with the nasty stuff about 24
hours behind us. We arrived safe at Yorkeys Knob
(north of Cairns) and are tied up at the boat club. We have caught up with Jerry
and Susanne from S.V. Thylacines who will be
cruising with us when we head north in two weeks. “Tim” finally crossed the
coast near Innisfail the next day so we were lucky
we left when we did. March28th 2013: Life at Yorkeys
Knob is pretty boring being trapped again at a marina whilst we restock and
do minor repairs, however we see a weather window around next Sunday so we
will head up to Lizard Isl. I am looking forward to getting the fishing gear
out again and pulling in some great feeds.We may
even try crocodile this trip if one of them is unlucky. April 8th 2013: A weather
window appears on the horizon and we get at least 3 days of light winds so we
pay the bill at Yorkeys and cruise off to Lizard
island. This is officially our first leg in the journey north. We stayed at
Lizard for 4 days and caught up with some old friends who cruise all year
‘round and once S.V.Thylacines caught up with us we
decided to head up to the Flinders group and do a little fishing befor moving further north. April 15th 2013: These
wonderful fertile waters this far north have an abundance of every variety of
fish you could wish for. We felt like some fresh fish for dinner so I threw a
5 inch spoon over the side and within minutes had a 22 kilo wahoo/Spanish makeral fighting for his life. I managed to retrieve him
with great difficulty as he was a lot bigger than we expected and they have a
massive mouth full of razor sharp teeth which they try and use at every
opportunity. He dressed up at approx. 15 kilo of pure fish fillet, enough
fresh fish for the next week or two. I put the lure away as we didn’t need
any more fish. April 17th 2013: We (and Thylacines) moved on while we had good weather to Morris
Island, a beautiful tropical Island with one tall coconut palm which one can
see from miles away. Like most of our overnight stopovers we launch the
dinghy to explore the beach and to give Ralf a run. They say this island has
a resident croc but we saw no eveidence this time.
We did see lots of flotsom which includes net
floats from all over the world and thousands of plastic bottles of every size
and colour. This seems to be the common problem
these days with plastic bottles, with thousand ending up in our oceans and
floating around the world. None of them seem to have any “message” in them
but the over welming message should be to the
people responsible for their journey is to be more responsible and put them
in the rubbish. April 18th 2013: The next leg
was up to Portland Roads. This is a small remote village which is a hangover
from WW2 When the ships that fought the Coral Sea battle were resupplied
from here. The US Navy had turned
the village into a huge military base and loading jetty. All that remains today is some rusty poles
where the jetty used to stand and a few houses and a small store. We stayed
overnight and moved on the next day. April 20th 2013: The last
time we were cruising up this way we wanted to go off the beaten track a little
and visit the Forbes group of Islands but bad weather prevented us. This time
we decided to go see them. They are three beautiful small Islands (12.17.16 S
– 143.24.36 E) and we stayed a couple of days. The water is so clear one can
see the giant clams on the surrounding reefs in 30 feet of water as clear as
glass. We had drinks on the beautiful white beach each afternoon watching the
sun go down over the barrier reef. I caught hundreds of small herring for
bait with my cast net as we walked along the beach in the early morning. April 22nd 2013: The weather
looked like it was going to deterioate so we
decided to shorten our stay and head north to beat the impending strong
winds. We cruised up to Margaret Bay with Thylacines
(Jerry and Susanne) and tucked in behind the point overnight. The next
morning the wind was
increasing so we took off for the top. (Cape York). We motored
all day in what turned out to be rough weather. It was a constant 25 knots
and the seas were around 2.5 to 3 meters. Fortunately it was mostly behind us So we were able to make good time. We anchored in the Escape
River that night and passed over the very rough bar next morning into wild
seas and 30 knots. April 24th 2013: We had 20
mile to go to the top of Australia and we were determined to do it today. After a very fast trip avaraging 10
knots (we had a 3 to 4 knot current pushing us to the top) we rounded Cape
York and the wind was mostly shielded now by the land mass. We decided to
finish the leg and continue on to Seisia which was
another 25 miles around on the inside of the Cape York. Seisia
is a small northern port where the top end is serviced by small ships who
supply everything from building material to food. We will stay here for a
week and relax. We have a few small jobs to carry out as well. Besides, a nasy tropical cyclone which they have just named ‘Zane’
is about 600 miles out in the Coral Sea and heading towards Queensland. April 25th 2013: It was here we
bumped into a yacht called “Starship”. We had seen her at Lizard and again at
the Flinders Group but hadn’t introduced ourselves so we finally met the owners, Vicky and Andy Bray.They
had been around the world and now were circumnavigating Oz. We also met a lone
sailor Peter, on “Sea Whiskers” who is also headed for Darwin so he decided
to tag along as well. We were getting quite a little fleet together by now so
the comradery was very pleasant. Thylacines has
not turned up yet so we can only assume they are ok. We left them at Margaret
Bay as they felt the weather was too rough for them to continue on that day.Had they known that a cyclone was on the way I feel
they may have changed their mind. April 28th 2013: ‘Zane” has
intensified and is reported to be heading for landfall about 100 miles from
us. We can expect to gat gale force winds and lottsa rain. The general consenses
in the harbour is one of calm as the locals say a
cyclone hasn’t hit Seisia for 100 years. I am not
so confident and we start to batten everthing down
and hope and wait. April 30th 2013: We wake
expecting gale force winds and devastation but instead we have 20 knots and
no rain. During the night ‘Zane’ collapsed into a tropical low about 60 miles
from us and fizzeld out…thank God. May 1st 2013: Thylacines turns up ok, they had been hiding in the Escape
River. An old friend in Seisia, Greg Bethune who
runs a local fishing charter boat returns from a trip so we have him over for
dinner next night to catch up and get some local river knowledge. We have
decided to enter some of the rivers whilst travelling down to Weipa and Greg is the expert as he fishes them all year
‘round. He gives me a heap of GPS co-ords so we can
enter with safety. Apart from the fishing club and the supermarket we don’t
really go antwhere in Seisia
as we have seen it all befor. Starship decides to
cruise with us and Thylacines for a while as we are
all headed for Darwin, so we decide to take off for Weipa
via the Doughboy and Jacson Rivers the next day. May 3nd 2013:In blustery
conditions we leave Seisia and head down to Vilya Point some 35 miles away and anchor just off the
beach for the night. We need to get a high tide the next day to enter the
Doughboy River. Once in the river we launch the tender and start exploring.
The first 10 minutes we see 2 crocodiles who scurry back into the water as we
got closer, and Peter off Sea Whiskers approached one little 4 meter specimen
to within 20 meters to capture a great photo. (See Photo log). After scaring
all the crocs away we settled down to some serious fishing. The river is
teaming with fish but as luck would have it the moon phase was out and they
weren’t on the bite. We did however get some mackeral
and Pete caught lottsa bream. May7th 2013: Once Thylacines
turned up we all decided to head down to the Jackson River. They said the Barra
were on the chew. We enetered the Jackson an hour
or so later and set up an anchorage. After chasing around the river for three
days we decided to head off to Weipa where we would
top off our diesel, freshen up our fruit and veggies and use this spot to
launch ourselves across the Gulf of Carpentaria. May 10th 2013:ce we arrived in
Weipa (Evans Landing) we were confronted with a
huge Chinese tanker parked on the only fuel wharf in town. We were told we
couldn’t get fuel until next week so we had no choice but to sit on anchor
for 7 days. Apart from that the local fuel Company…’Oz Fuel’ then said they
had no body ‘qualified’ to operate the pumps until the following week. They
are a bloody fuel company and don’t have anybody qualified…give me a break. I
kicked up a storm and rang the shell Company that supplies them and found a
guy that was qualified who said he would help when the tanker left. The advice here for anybody travelling thru Weipa
to Darwin…don’t bother. I have dubbed the bloody hole
“Grim Weipa” and will never set foot in the place
again. May 16th 2013: The Gulf
awaits us. We all head off at different times to cross the Gulf. Pete on Cats
Whiskers left tthree days befor, Thylacines left the day befor, and Starship left the evening befor.
We were the last to head west. The first 100 miles weren’t too bad. The
weather predictions were for 10 to 15 knots increasing to 20 with waves to 1.5 to 2 meters tops.This was true to predictions until the next day when
from out of knowhere comes this swell with waves to
4 meters. It wasn’t so much the size as the direction. They were on our port
beam and rolled us thru 30 degrees on some waves. We were also hit with rain
squalls and wind up to 30 on occasions. I decided to start the generator to
power up the Gyro stabiliser system which saved the
day. It reduced the roll to 15 degrees and slowed down the side pitching as
well. 42 hours later we glided into Gove harbour at
2.00 am in the morning of the second day, and I think I was asleep befor the anchor hit the bottom. Not a very nice trip but
they say the gulf can be unpredictable at best. The boat handled the
conditions beautifully as expected as did the crew!. May 21st 2013:After a good rest
we decide to put ‘Liberty’ up on the creening rack
at Gove Yacht club(photo log) to clean her sides and check the anodes and
props. After a low tide we were able to clean the waterline, underwater
lights, check the props and rudders and anodes. I was surprised to find after
18 months we still had clean props and rudders, the prop speed was still
mostly there doing it’s job, and the anodes were
only about half gone so I determind that she can
wait till we slip her at Xmas. We enjoyed our stay at Gove, meeting some
local characters and having a beer with them. Everyone there just wants to
help, they are very friendly people. May 23rd2013: We all decide
(except Starship) to beat a weather change and head off to the Wessel Islands
for a week. Starship will sail to Darwin along the mostly unchatred
coast via Elchro Island and meet up with us
probably at Cape Don. We all pulled into a little beach about 15 miles from the Wessels overnight so we could take on the “Hole in the
Wall” which is a 2 mile cutting between two islands in the Wessels. One has to get an ebbing tide to get thru from
the east to west as the current can be upwards to 10 knots. We arrived about
two hours befor low tide
and had an exilerating trip thru at 13.5 knots. I
had no idea how pretty the area was as we screamed thru the cutting. When we leave the Wessels (we need 2
days good weather) we will do the 175 miles in one day/night run across to the Goulburn Island. Cats Whiskers will follow us but Thylacines will head down the Wessels
and do the coast run as well. We may not see them
again until Darwin. We are booked into Cullen Bay Marina first week in June
for a month. My next report will be from there. May 25th 2013. The cruise
across the ‘Arafura’ was reasonable considering the 220 miles is situated in
the windiest area of the far north. We had 15 to 20 knots behind us so we had
a fast trip to Malay Bay. We worked our way towards Darwin over the next 3
days down from Cape Don. The Van Diemen Gulf showed us that it wasn,t going to let us pass without paying our respects
so she threw 30 knots at us on the nose and made me tack the whole way. The
75 miles become 105 thru out the day. We made Cape Hotham
by sunset with only 30 miles to go to Darwin. May 28th 2013. We anchored in
Fanny Bay until mid morning when I could arrange
with the Cullen Bay lockmaster to let us thru the lock to a berth. For the next 3 weeks we will do a mini refit and a few repairs
as well as a full service on both engines and the genny. I have decided to install a second auto pilot, a new Garmin
state of the art to back up “George” who is now 7 years old and starting to
make some awful noises. The pilot is the hardest working electronic on any
boat and needs a backup on long trips. The hydraulic steering is leaking as
well so will have to be repaired. July 3rd 2013. We head off
from Darwin to the Kimberley for a nightv run. We
travel a lot at night as the wind usually drops off more and the conditions
are cooler. WE are fully equipped to travel at night with all the necessary
instruments and charts. We arrived at the Berkley River around 2.00 am the
next day. It is hard to describe the Kimberley in a few words. The beauty and
splendour of the landscapes right thru out the area
is unique to Australia. We spent a week 12 miles up the Berkley River and did
some auwsome hikes up the cliffs to see the
spectacles of the waterfalls and the fresh water rock pooles.
The fishing is to die for, almost anyone can catch fish in these parts they
are so abundent. WE then headed down stream waited for a weather window and a
full tide and crossed the bar heading for the King George river some 40 miles
down the coast. This awsome river is also barred
and we had to pick our tide to enter the river. The cruise up the King George
was equally spectacular with the 250 ft.high cliffs
and at the end the famous twin falls. Being July meant that the water was
hardly running now as the wet season was months back but they were still
great to see up close. We took on some more great
climbing and hiking and got to the top of the falls to take photos. July18th 2013.We left the river and set a
course for Broome Bay where we wanted to spend a week exploring the many
sites and islands that offered aboriginal art and great fishing. We anchored
in Mission Bay for a few days to avaoid 30 knots
and while in there I caught the biggest Spanish Mackeral
I have ever caught. He went 22 kilos and was almost 1.25 meters long. Annie
caught a nice Big Mouth Nanniguy of the swim
platform one night as well. We run around in the dinghy most days exploring bays and beaches
and finally the time to head back was upon us. We had a weather window of 3
days coming up and decided to use that to beat the notorious Bonaparte gulf who’s reputation for sinking boats with huge waves is
legendary. We left the Kimberley on the Saturday morning and cruised straight
for 40 hours to Darwin doing the 330 miles in one hit. The weather was
fantastic and the boat performed beautifully. August 2nd 2013. We are
currently in Cullen Bay again for 2 weeks doing a few maintenance jobs like changing
out both main engine impellers and general repairs etc
befor the big trip back to the Gold Coast. The 2600
miles will take us till early December to do as we cruise slowly back across
the top end and down the Queensland coast. We still have the Arafura sea and
the Gulf of Carpentaria to do so the trip will not be without excitement. August 14th 2013. Anyone that travells west across the top will tell you that the
return trip from west to east which is against the trade winds will be a
challenge. A challenge to get the weather right so the trip doesn’t become a
nightmare. We were not looking forward to the Arafura Sea and the Gulf of
Carpentaria legs but unless we could beam ourselves
over we had to do it. The morning came with a predicted 4 day window of good
winds so we exited the lock at Cullen Bay marina and headed out from Darwin
to the Arafura. My expectationd were high for a
good trip and by the time we had reached Cape Don ..some
100 miles from Darwin I made the decision to not stop over for a night but
instead to round Croker Isl. And ‘go for it’ which meant instead of doing 40
to 50 miles a day across Arnum lands coast with
stop overs every evening and making it a 5 day run it will become a 2day 2
night run and knock the 300 miles off in one go. This way if the weather
closed in we should be over befor it starts. August 18th 2013. Well we are
anchored in Guruilya Bay in the Wessels
Isl. With the Arafura Sea behind us. We had a dream run with only about 12
hours of rough passage where the winds sprung up overnioght
to about 25 knots for a while. The next day we headed off to the “Hole in the
Wall” enroute to Gove. The Hole in the Wall is a 2
mile channel that nature had cut into solid rock between two islands. It is
only about 30 to 40 meters wide and the currents reach 15 knots during the mid tides. The trip thru is qyuite
exilerating and somewhat dangerous if one isn,t on the ball. The channel
is full of eddies, whirlpools and overfalls and can
knock the boat completely off course in a second and have it heading towards
the wall at 15 knots. This is exactly what happened this time. We got into a
whirlpool and befor I could blink the boat had
turned around 90 degrees and was headed for the rocks. Only full throttles
and a full opposite lock saved the day being a bad one. It is impossible to
avoid the whirlpools but one can only be carefull
as the boat progresses along the channel. We arrived in Gove later that day for a well
earned rest. August 22nd 2013. Weather
windows this time of year are few and far between what with the trade winds
blowing consistently 26 days out of every 30, I could see another 3 or 4 days
of moderate winds and slight seas shaping up (my predictions based on
experience by now) We decided to put the Gulf on the line and put it behind
us. We hauled anchor and set the auto pilot on 80 degrees and the throttles
for 7.5 knots and set off for the Cape York Peninsula,
or Doughboy Creek to be precise. I shouldn’t have to touch the pilot or
throttles for another 360 miles. We had a dream run across the Gulf with only
the last 60 miles when the sea conditions went from glass to 3 meters plus
for no apparent reason. The winds came at around 25’s but gradually the
weather improved and by the time we had arrived at the river the sea was
calm. We had to anchor outside the Doughboy River for 4 hors
to wait for the tide to allow us entry. The reason we went for the Doughboy
instead of Seisia was because a friend of ours,
Greg Bethune who runs a fishing charter business, was in the river working
and we decided to surprise him. We rested for a couple of days in the river befor heading up the 50 miles to Seisia.
We caught some nice fish while we were in the Doughboy for the 3 days. August 27th 2013: It was time to
head up to Seisia (Cape York) to prepare for the
trip down the east coast of Queensland. We anchored off Seisia
and had to wait for 30 knot s.e winds to abate. It
took 10 days before we had a weather window. Meanwhile we met some nice yachties in
the bay and played 500 for a few days and had the odd drink. We started
flicking some lures at night in the lights and got busted up continuously
with some big Tarpin around 4 kilo plus. They are
great fish to catch but shit to eat so we just threw them back each time. September 8th 2013: Finally we get
the weather we need to go around the top to the Escape River for the run
down. The next day we headed down to Cape Grenfell in 20 knots on the quarter
beam, not all that comfy but we managed 7 knots. September 14th 2013: After 400
miles and 6 days of cruising we pulled into Lizard Island for a well earned rest. The usual crowd were
there including Ruth and Peter on ‘Coral Sea’ so we had a very pleasant 2
weeks of Sundowners, snorkelling, fishing and
swimming and sadly eventually we had to pull the pick and head south to
restock and refuel. I hadn’t put any fuel in the boat since Gove in Northern
Territory. We headed out and cruised down to Yorkey’s
Knob boat club to stay a few days and pick up our friend Shaun from the Gold
Coast who will do the next leg to Townsville with us via some reef fishing. October 2nd 2013: We restocked
and fueled and with Shaun on board we headed out to do some fishing. First
night was at Fitzroy Isl. Then the next day we headed down to High Isl. To
catch a few Coral Trout but that proved no good as the tide was wrong. We
headed for Mourilian Harbour
for the night and Shaun caught a beautiful Striped Grunter around 3 Kg, then
out to Farquarson Reef the next day to a little
spot we know. Annie caught the best fish of the day,3
nice size Coral Trout, but Shaun did ok considering he was new to reef
fishing. We then headed into the Hinchinbrook Channel for the night hoping to
clean up on Bara but again all we got were giant catfish around 10 kilo. October 6th 2013: We are just
leaving Magnetic Island as I write this on our way down to the Whitsundays to
see a few friends and spend a week or so relaxing around the many islands. I
will pick this report up in a week. October 10th
2013: We headed for Bowen after moseing
along the coast for a couple of days and stayed in the Marina for two days to
catch up with Kerry and Eileen. We also run into Gary and Katherine Topp on “Grand Seas” who were staying in the marina. October 13th
2013: After socializing for a
couple of days we decided to head over to the eco resort at Gloucester
straights to see Ray and Sue on “Devil’s Lair”. They were now living in the Whits. on their cruiser so we
decided to share lunch at the resort and take the opportunity to catch up.
After a lovely weekend we headed down the coast via Brampton Isl., Scawfel and then on to Curlew Isl. We then continued on
via Marble Isle to Island Head where we anchored for a cople
of days to wait out a southerly blow. October20th
2013: Once the wind dropped we headed down to The Kepples
where we met up with Peter on his new Clipper 46 cruiser. We had a lovely
break here and started looking at the last380 miles to home and how we would
do it. October 25th
2013: After studying the weather patterns for the next week it was
decided that the weather would turn bad within 5 days and stay bad for a week
so we made the decision to go for it and do the entire trip
in one go. We got used to long legs throughout this trip so two more days and
two more nights would see us within reach of the Gold Coast. October 27th
2013: We almost got away with it. The wind came up prematurely as we
crossed the bar at Fraser Isl. And promised a miserable beam on sea all the
way to Redcliffe, some 100 miles away. I had no
choice but to head out to sea about 45 miles to tack against the beam sea. I
set the boat up at 45 deg. to the swell for some degree of comfort and safety
as the swells were rising to over 3 meters with the wind up around 30 knots.
It was just on dark as we cruised past Double Island point and headed out to
sea. Every now and again the boat would get knocked off course with the
collision of a rogue wave that I couldn’t see because there was no moon but
we were committed now so we had to keep going. After about 6 hours cruising I
turned for land and set up the boat at 45 deg. on the port quarter and run
with the swell for another 5 hours. I now had covered around 80 miles but only
advanced about 50 down the coast. I then repeated the tack to sea for another
20 miles and then turned again to run with it. By this time I had entered the
slightly calmer waters off Caloundra
so I was able to head parallel with Bribie Isl. now for the last 15 miles to Redcliffe. If I hadn’t tacked all the way I am sure we
would have destroyed the boat. Large displacement cruisers like ours do not
like a beam on sea but can get away with them if the right tactics are used. November 2nd
2013: After seeing the kids at Redcliffe
for a day or two we slowly made our way home to Hope Island Marina. We had travelled over 7000 nautical miles, used over 14000 litres of diesel and averaged around 8 knots for the trip.
We travelled across 3 states and met some nice boaties
on the way. Liberty performed faultlessly(a small
gearbox problem only)and took us thru some of the prettiest country in the
world. The Kimberley was spectactular and the
journey was exciting. Our next adventure will commence around October this year when
we head south to Tasmania and all its ports. |